Travelling in Seoul. A crash course.

1. Be aware that traffic lights here are largely decorative pieces. At the most generous, road signs (including speed signs) here are still more what you'd call guidelines than actual rules. 2. Leave no more than two feet between you and the car in front. 3. As a corollary to point 2, you’ll need to break hard. It's especially fun to observe this rule in action while 'standing' on the bus. 4. If you want to change lanes, just do it. Follow your gut. 5. Public transport is efficient but hazardous. Apart from the dangers inherent in driving around the city already mentioned, merely boarding is not without obstacles. On the way back from town tonight, Emma only had one foot on the bus when it started pulling away. Forgivable in itself maybe, but when the driver spotted her, he just carried on as he was - she had to jump off again. I was just grateful nobody here understands English, so they didn't know what she really thought of him.

6. Seoul is busy. Don't expect that going by foot will be less stressful. In Seoul, if someone wants to get past you, they will climb right over you as you stand (while steadfastly refusing to acknowledge you or make eye contact). This habit takes some getting used to. When I come back home, expect me to just elbow you out of the way every time I need to get past.

7. There's no such thing as a pedestrianised zone. Down the narrowest of side streets, even on the pavement, motorcycles (sometimes cars) will come straight at you. You will be the one to move.

8. At pedestrian crossings, the Korean incarnation of the green 'walk' man should be treated with deep suspicion. He won't come along very often, he's unpredictable, and he definitely jumps the gun. There will always be at least two more cars along after he's given you the all clear. If you're lucky enough that no cars have actually parked on the crossing, make your way swiftly and be constantly vigilant. The next van will be hurtling round the corner any second now.

All this said, I’ve yet to see or hear of any accidents (though Emma did have to pull a woman clear of the zebra crossing a few weeks ago as she’d foolishly trusted the green man and started crossing before all the cars had finished).